![]() The Big O ring cost $13.50 and the small ones are $9.50 each. When I put the NEW O ring on it I lubricated it and it was still a struggle to push it on.įord has gone out of their mind with prices. It was the O ring, When I pulled off the thermostat housing there was no resistance and it would side back over the O ring with no effort. The thermostat housing is off and the O ring has no resistance when I side it on or off so I guess that's the problem. I guess it dried out when I took the radiator out and aired out for 6 days. That BIG O ring connects the thermostat to the block under the intake manifold.ĭarn. Pressure test finds the leak at the thermostat O ring. Turn the car around and back to the house 1/4 mile away. The smoke comes flowing out from the front. Give it a full-throttle run up to 45 then brake for the red light. Get the five and turn onto the 45MPH boulevard. The car sits for two days and today I want to give it a ride for about 25 miles so I take it for 1 miles ride bring it back, check it out, all OK. in I test drive the car for about 1 mile, then check it out, no leaks. Hold the A/C condenser up, Then pull up on the passenger side of the radiator up first sort of angling the radiator so as to clear the bottom outlet of the radiator with the A/C line you did not remove.Īfter I get the Radi. (the A/C condenser drops down and can bend the pipe) try not to bend the passenger side A/C pipe as you remove the radiator. ![]() Take a picture of how the A/C pipe and trans oil hoses are rooted. This will give you some extra room by getting those hoses out of the way from between the radiator and the frame, plus the Pwr/Str Trans oil cooler will be fall out of the way. You will have to remove two permanent hose clamps at the cooler. Remove all the parts you can and then remove the oil lines to the Pwr/Str cooler on the driver's side. But if you don't know how or don't want to recharge the A/C then do this. If I was to do this job again I would evac the A/C freon and remove the hard lines to the condenser. cooler hoses and an A/C pipe are on the passenger side, they all interfere with the removal and installation of the coolant/ radiator. The oil hoses for the Pwr/Str run between the frame rail and the coolant radiator, plus the A/C pipe that goes to the condenser on the driver's side. In front of the coolant/ radiator is a dual power steering/transmission cooler. The biggest problem is the lower radiator mounts are so wide it is very difficult to get the radiator up and out. There is the coolant radiator, the Trans oil and pwr/Str cooler combo and the A/C condenser that are all mounted together. The new radiator is in and I have a few things to tell anyone who plans to change their radiator.
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